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Peak Lenin Expedition

Location: Kyrgyzstan
  • Difficulty: Ultra
  • Season: Summer
  • Duration: 23 Days
  • Region: Asia
  • Type: Trekking
Spaces left: Available
  • Difficulty: Ultra
  • Season: Summer
  • Duration: 23 Days
  • Region: Asia
  • Type: Trekking
About The Peak Lenin Expedition

Peak Lenin (7,134m) is located in the Pamir Range on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. It is the third highest peak in the former Soviet Union and the second highest peak in Kyrgyzstan after Peak Pobeda (7,439,). Peak Lenin, Peak Pobeda, Ismoli Somoni (7,495m), Korzhenevsky (7,105m) and Khan Tengri (7,010m) are the five 7000m peaks located in the former USSR. To summit all five awarded one the title of ‘Snow Leopard’, the highest award for climbing in the former Soviet Union.
Although Peak Lenin is often referred to as the world’s easiest 7,000m peaks and is technically no harder than Elbrus or Mont Blanc, it is far from easy. The complexities of proper acclimatisation, high winds, extreme cold and a long summit day make Peak Lenin a formidable challenge. Our 23 day itinerary allows for good acclimatisation and has the flexibility to accommodate bad weather, maximising your chances of reaching the summit.
Peak Lenin is very accessible from Osh with base camp (3,600m) being only a half days drive away. The entire route is stunningly beautiful and each day offers something different. Base camp is located on a beautiful flower filled alpine meadow, base camp is the perfect location to prepare for the upper mountain. The heavily glaciated section between camps one and two is very interesting as we cross numerous crevasses and are roped up for the entire route. The upper mountain offers amazing views of surrounding landscape and those to the south into Tajikistan are particularly impressive. If we finish the expedition on schedule we have time for shopping and relaxing in the warm air of Osh, Kyrgyzstan’s second largest city often referred to as the capital of the south.

Read Rosie's Peak Lenin trip report here.

Why climb Peak Lenin with Earth's Edge

100% Financial Protection – Earth’s Edge is Ireland’s only fully licensed (TA:0711) and financially bonded adventure travel company.

Our Peak Lenin expedition will be led by an experienced Irish guide and accompanied by an expedition doctor who will travel with the group from Dublin.

Our packages are inclusive of flights from Dublin, in-country transport, a full local guiding & support team, accommodation, all meals on the trek,  trekking permits, three pre-expedition training days, a celebratory meal & an Earth's Edge softshell jacket.

Our 23 day itinerary includes 18 days on the mountain allowing you to acclimatise properly, thus maximising your chances of a successful summit attempt.

We use excellent local guides, cooks and support staff. We have a strict Responsible Travel Policy and ensure our local partners are treated fairly.

Training days – Meet your Earth's Edge expedition leader, your Earth's Edge expedition doctor and your fellow Peak Lenin expedition team members three times in the months leading up to departure. Our training days consist of a full brief on all aspects of the Peak Lenin expedition and guided hikes in Glendalough, Co. Wicklow.

We have a strict Leave No Trace policy and do everything we can to ensure we leave the mountain as we found it. 

Our Peak Lenin Itinerary & Costs

Please note the following plan is very much subject to change based on weather conditions and the health and fitness of all expedition members.

Day 1: Dublin to Osh.
Fly Dublin to Osh. Overnight flight.

Day 2: Arrive in Osh (1,000m).
Arrive in Osh in the early morning and transfer to the hotel. Most of the day is free to relax or explore Osh. In the afternoon we will have an expedition brief and review the plan for the next few days.

Day 3: Drive Osh to Base Camp (3,600m).
After breakfast we drive to Achik-Tash base camp. It’s a 280km journey and takes between four and six hours depending on the condition of the road. In the afternoon we will go for a short hike around base camp.

Day 4: Puteshestvennikov Pass (4,100m). 5 hrs trekking
We start the process of acclimatisation and stretch the legs along the trail towards Camp 1. It’s a really scenic hike as we pass groves of onion, a beautiful water fall and enjoy nice views of the Lenin Glacier. It takes about three hours to reach the pass and 90 minutes to return to Base Camp. It’s quite likely we will see Marmot as well as local horsemen on their way to Camp 1.

Day 5: Base Camp to Camp 1 (4,200m). 7/8 hrs trekking.
Today we return to the Puteshestvennikov Pass and continue onwards to Camp 1. The route climbs along the moraine adjacent to the impressive Lenin Glacier. We cross a stream which can be more like a river if the weather is hot and the glacier is melting!! As we approach Camp 1 we can see climbers on the impressive route to Camp 2. At Camp 1 there are fixed tents, a mess tent, three hot meals a day, a generator for charging cameras, a shower of sorts and limitless tea and coffee. 5 stars compared to camps 2 and 3!!

Day 6: Rest day at Camp 1.
Spend the day resting.

Day 7: Acclimatisation hike. 6 hrs trekking
Today we take an acclimatisation hike up Yukhin Peak, located close to Camp 1. It's not glaciated so mountaineering boots are not required. Depending on how people are feeling we may or may not reach the summit, the primary goal of the day is acclimatisation.

Day 8: Skills training Lenin Glacier. 5 hrs.
After breakfast we will ascend the Lenin Glacier to 4600m which is the first quarter of the route to camp 2. During the day those with less experience will learn how to move on snow and ice effectively as we as experience being roped up and cross some of the smaller crevasses on the route. We return to camp 1 for lunch and spend the afternoon packing for our first trip to the upper mountain.

Day 9: Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5300m). 8 to 10 hrs.
Apart from summit day our first trip to Camp 2 is the hardest on the expedition. The route is heavily glaciated and avalanche prone so special care is needed when selecting what time to start the ascent. It takes about an hour to cross the moraine and flat part of the glacier to the point where we put on crampons and rope up. From there the route climbs steadily through some stunning terrain. We cross deep crevasses, snow bridges and in some conditions ladders and fixed rope are needed. After roughly 900 metres of ascent the route traverses to the right to reach Camp 2. It's a very tough but rewarding day.

Day 10: Carry Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6148m). 6 hrs.
After yesterday's long day we have a shorter yet tough day today. From Camp 2 the first hour is very steep to reach the ridge below Razdelnaya Peak. Once on the ridge the route is very gradual for about two hours. The last two hours are very steep to climb into Camp 3. Although we are on snow there is usually no need to rope up as the route is not glaciated. In Camp 3 we drop some gear, take some photos and then descend back to Camp 2.

Day 11: Camp 2 to Camp 1. 3 hrs.
In the morning we descend the Lenin Glacier to camp 1.

Day 12. Rest day Camp 1.

Day 13. Rest day Camp 1.

Day 14. Rest day Camp 1.

Day 15. Ascend to Camp 2.

Day 16. Ascend to Camp 3.

Day 17. Summit day. 15 hours.
Summit day on Peak Lenin is an extremely long and tough day. We start by descending for 100 metres from Camp 3 and then have a long 400 metre climb to reach the summit ridge. This whole section is typically completed before sunrise which can be a challenge for some people as it is difficult to stay warm. Once on the ridge there are two more significant steep sections one of which is exposed and has fixed roped. Generally the summit ridge is very wide and undulating. There are several false summits before we reach Peak Lenin itself which is marked with a statue of the former leader and other memorials. The views from the summit, especially those to the south into Tajikistan with endless snowcapped peaks including nearby giants, Ismoli Somoni (Communism Peak) and Korzhenevsky make all the effort worthwhile. It typically takes 10 hours to reach the summit and 5 hours to return to Camp 3. One needs strong physical and mental toughness to summit Peak Lenin.

Day 18: Spare Summit Day.
Spare day to account for bad weather, further acclimatisation and rest.

Day 19: Spare Summit Day.
Spare day to account for bad weather, further acclimatisation and rest.

Day 20: Spare Summit Day.
Spare day to account for bad weather, further acclimatisation and rest.

Day 21: Descend to Base Camp. 6 hrs trekking.
We descend all the way to base camp.

Day 22: Drive to Osh.
We drive back to Osh and check into the hotel. In the evening we go for a celebration meal in the city and then enjoy our first night in a bed in weeks! Overnight hotel.

Day 23: Osh to Dublin.
We depart Osh in the early morning and arrive back in Dublin in the mid afternoon. Expedition ends.

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EXPEDITION COSTS
€399 non-refundable deposit at the time of booking & €4,700 balance payment due two months prior to departure - Total €5,099.  Read our best price guarantee.

Costs include; international flights to Osh, an expedition leader & doctor travelling with the group from Dublin, all transport in Kyrgyzstan, all meals on the trek, all accommodation based on twin sharing in hotels & camping, three training days, local support team & an Earth’s Edge softshell jacket.

*Prices were set on September 1st, 2015.
*It is possible to pay the balance off in instalments.

How To Book

*Please note that you must have previous experience of trekking to over 5000 metres to take part in this Ultra expedition.

If you would like to sign up to this expedition but need some time before you can confirm your commitment, we can hold a space for you. We will hold your space for 48 hours after which time you will need to complete the booking form & pay your deposit.

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